Margot Berg :: Diary

The journey comes to an end

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 16:07:00 +0100

Four weeks, 28 days of travel, meetings, discoveries, fulfillment, contacts. Five hours of shooting, 800 photos, 800 unique visitors since July, 10 filmed interviews, 56 published articles, lots of encouragement, this is the numerical balance of the trip. But the most important is the human report of such an adventure.

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Some Latvian unfamiliarities

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:25:00 +0100

In a trip, you always find amazing things. Whether it's about living conditions, shopping, behaviour or expressions. Do you remember those commercials for India titled "Incredible India"? Since the beginning of my trip, I collected some pictures of farcical situations. Unusual Latvia in 10 frames!

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A day at Jurmala's beach

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Mon, 09 Aug 2010 12:19:00 +0100

Before leaving for Latvia, I put my fleece and my walking shoes in my bag. In early July, a quick glance at the weather forecast and I have the pleasant surprise to find temperatures around 30 degrees. Great! I thought of having a cold, rainy, I even manage to sunbathe, swim and go to the beach! The heat wave's good for tourists, Latvians prefer a few degrees less generally.

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A bus trip, another Latvian adventure

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sun, 08 Aug 2010 10:23:00 +0100

Travelling is discovering new cities, landscapes, meeting people, being interested in history and culture of a country ... But it is also moving, dealing with logistical problems, anticipating a little and move. In Latvia, between two cities, I used the bus, convenient and more or less quick to reach two points. A few anecdotes about my trips.

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Legends of the Latvian forest

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 15:11:00 +0100

After my trip in Courland, the blue lakes, classical palaces and traditional Art Nouveau in Riga, I spent a weekend in the forest and more specifically to Gauja National Park. Called the Latvian Switzerland, this park is very popular and appreciated by tourists - foreigners and Latvians. To see so many people in the nature changes me from my days of lonelyness and I missed my peace. I plunged a little deeper into the forest to find myself alone with ferocious mosquitoes. The mysteries of the woods have proven to me and let me tell you the legend of the Rose of Turaida.

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Rundale Pils: French-style castle in Latvia

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Fri, 06 Aug 2010 15:02:00 +0100

Sometimes I wonder why I travel so much ... I'm almost at the end of my tour of Latvia and a cool Friday morning, I go to Rundale near the Lithuanian border, to discover the "Latvian Versailles". The resemblance is uncanny, although the size is ridiculous compared to that of the famous palace of the Louis XIV. But the spell is the same, the architecture restored shines in the morning sun. The remains of aristocracy and Courlandian style of Pils Rundale Courlandian welcome me.

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The Soviet occuption leaves its mark

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 14:50:00 +0100

In front of my hotel in Riga, the Occupation Musuem rises majestically. A black, austere, rectangular building remains of this troubled period which runs from 1940-1991. Every day, I pass by to reach the Old City, I can not avoid it more and by a cloudy afternoon, I am confronted with the Latvian historical reality of the twentieth century.

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Ludza, the oldest city in Latvia

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Wed, 04 Aug 2010 13:30:00 +0100

Latgale is famous for its numerous lakes and today I'm going to admire Ludza's two lakes, the big and the small, as they are commonly called. Ludza is also the oldest city in Latvia, founded in the first millenary BC by Baltic tribes. It's by chance that I head to this town and surprise and amazement accompanied me throughout my day.

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Rezekne, a city ruled by the Russians

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 13:15:00 +0100

After Riga and the Courland, I head to the east. Let's go to Rezekne in Latgale, Latvia's seventh largest city and capital of the Blue Lakes region.

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Latvian multiculturalism

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Mon, 02 Aug 2010 12:50:00 +0100

Latvia is a diversified country. Centuries of occupation by Swedish, German, Polish or Russian make the country a real melting pot. Of the 2.25 million people, only 58.8% are real Latvians. With the Russification during the Soviet period - 1.5 million people displaced - it is not uncommon in some cities, that the majority of the population is Russian. In Riga, for example, there are 43% of Russians and 41% of Latvians.

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The ground mourns its ashes in Salaspils

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sun, 01 Aug 2010 12:41:00 +0100

On the road to Moscow, located about twenty kilometers from Riga, there is the concentration camp of Salaspils. Approximately 100,000 people were murdered during the Second World War.

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The sauna, another Latvian tradition

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sat, 31 Jul 2010 12:16:00 +0100

When I stayed at Ediite's place in Plienciems, I had the opportunity to have a sauna in its most tradition way.

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Couch surfing or how to do local meetings

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:42:00 +0100

When traveling, we often meet other travelers, but what about locals? When we pass from youth hostels to touristic attractions, the meeting is not the easiest. Even by going to the farthest corners, friendships are difficult. To fill this gap, there are - among others - the couch surfing.

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The livs, people of the Baltic coast

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 14:37:00 +0100

Still travelling on the Baltic coast and particularly in the north, I get interested in the Livs, a nation considered as one of the oldest in Europe.

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Kolka, the splendid end of the world

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:30:00 +0100

Cape Kolka, both empty and full of meaning. An afternoon of bus is needed to join the northern-most point of Courland. Villages passe and the bus is getting empty, I'm finally the only one to get off in Kolka. The excitement grows, I'm coming soon Kolka, the highlight of my trip to Latvia.

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Ventspils, a harbour on the Baltic

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:19:00 +0100

Ventspils, up north in Courland and on the Baltic coast is the next step of my journey. The town considered as "the most beautiful city of Latvia" is dotted with wooden houses and wide streets with flowers.
I'm starting to get used to the rural atmosphere and after a few detours to see the colorful attics, I meet with Janis, from the cultural center, for a guided tour of the city.

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Kuldiga, salmon, movies set and deep countryside

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 17:18:00 +0100

After leaving Liepaja on the coast, I'm going to Kuldiga, a charming town in rural Courland. During a two-hour bus ride through the green fields my imagination has jumped from Britain to Ireland and then returned to the Alps in summertime and stops in Latvia.

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Karosta, the Russian district banned to Latvians

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sun, 25 Jul 2010 16:19:00 +0100

After visiting Liepaja, I went for a walk in Karosta, a Russian quarter which excluded Latvians during the occupation. Covering one third of the entire city, there only are deserted alleyways with red brick buildings and green trees.

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Latvia seen by Dita

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sat, 24 Jul 2010 18:34:00 +0100

Young of almost 30 years old, Dita grew up in Liepaja before leaving for Riga to study Baltic philology. She went to Moscow, and then to Gijon in Spain as a European volunteer. She pursued at Philadelphia, U S A. It took us nearly 3 hours in front of a coffee to get through her experience and her feelings about Latvia.

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Baltic Beach Party 2010

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Fri, 23 Jul 2010 10:45:00 +0100

I came to Liepaja with one objective: to attend the Baltic Beach Party, a famous pop rock and electro festival in Eastern Europe, on the beach. The atmosphere will change me from the decked streets of Riga I thought.
After three hours by bus, I arrive in a gray, gloomy and rainy city. Although it is the third city of the country, we cross it in 20 minutes.

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A meeting with a Latvian artist

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:14:00 +0100

Spending the day with Laura, a graphic designer, I went to her drawing lesson and I had the chance to meet with her teacher. Not only does he do classes but he also paint. Learn more about Reinis Liepa's work.

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But who are the tourists in Riga?

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 18:05:00 +0100

I came to Latvia for a video reporting about Latvian youth. Several times, people asked me "why Latvia?" Mostly for the contacts I have over there. Also to discover an unknown country, for adventures.
During the famous hostel's Pub Crawl (5 bars - 5 beers), I asked the question to the tourists. A look at their answers.

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Non-citizens in Latvia

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 09:49:00 +0100

Talking with Mara, a young Latvian, that I learnt more about the people and furthermore about the very particular status of Latvians non-citizens. Called nepilsoņi, they represented in 2008, 17.2% of the population. Some explanations.

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Escapade at Central Market of Riga

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:43:00 +0100

When I travel, I also have with me a guidebook that serves as my pocket Bible ... finally more or less ... In the Lonely Planet, a trip to the central market in Riga - Centraltirgus - was highly recommended and even compared to a visit to the Louvre in Paris ... As a good tourist, I headed out early to watch some local authentications.

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With Latvian, I lost my tongue!

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 19:50:00 +0100

I can speak French, English and Spanish. I understan Catalan, I can catch some words in Portuguese and in Italian. I read Greek, I can more or less count in Chinese, Hindi and Hebrew and of course, I can say "cheers" in 12 languages. But non of these words help me in Latvia. Frustrated because I couldn't even say Hello or thank you in the shops, or using my English in every situation, I decided to learn some basic Latvian.

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Why Ukraine is not part of the European Union?

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:37:00 +0100

Jurmala Beach, 10km from Riga, during the sunset, I meet with Elena and she tells me about Latvia and Ukraine.

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I would like some still water…

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 12:01:00 +0100

A traveler has two occupations while travelling apart from dicovering a country: a place to sleep and a place to eat. For sleeping, I found but after a long day of walking, I'm tristy and hungry.

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In the streets of Riga

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 11:42:00 +0100

In the streets of Riga, you can find a lot of things… A glimpse of my first walk.

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Paris is grey, Helsinki is blue, Riga is green, blue and grey

margot@regardsverslalettonie.org (Margot Berg) — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 11:15:00 +0100

I arrived! Finally! After a 10-hour-journey from my home town in France to Riga, Latvia capital. A journey loaded of emotions, discoveries and futhermore the begining of a great adventure!

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